Natal das Cataratas

Day 1040,
115 895 km since the beginning of the journey,
Foz do Iguacu, Brazil.


Also here's a big, 18-meter-high Christmas tree in the middle of the city.

Transamazonica, Day 5 and 6

29.10.2013, The Fifth Day on the Road of Transamazonica.
Day's journey - 410 km,
110,281 km since the beginning of the journey.

The temperature at night was normal, everywhere was complete silence, and in the morning all around was in gray fog.

Transamazonica, Day 3 and 4

27.10.2013
Route: Medicilandia – Uruara – Placas – Ruropolis –  Divinopolis (316 km).

In the morning, the sky is clear, light blue, and not a cloud in sight. And most important - the ground is dry again.

Transamazonica, Day 1 and 2

25.10.2013
Route: Maraba - Novo Repartimento (191 km).

The story began in the previous post - Legendary Roads 

Ahead was waiting nearly 2,000 kilometers of road, the current condition of which was mostly unknown. 
The Google search results confirmed that the road was generally passable during dry seasons.

But Googling photos and Youtube search about Transamazonica and the road BR-230 gave such results that one should immediately turn the car around and better not try to drive along this way by this white bus.


In fact, the situation was much better because although it was very hot outside, more important was that the road was dry. And mostly dusty. Very dusty indeed. So dusty that one could create a special word to describe it. I mean – a decent word.

Legendary Roads

South American legendary roads you can be categorized in several ways, first, for example, those that are known better and you will have to use them as the only inland road to enjoy some beautiful place.


The first example –to visit the Perito Moreno glacier in Argentina, a visitor must drive along Ruta 40. The total length of the road is over 5,000 kilometers from the Bolivian border to Terra de Fuego.

Belem

24.10.2013.

Belem a large city of Brazil with the population of two million inhabitants, and the city has an area of over 1,000 km2. The city's history begins since the year of 1616, when the fort was built here, and the status of a city was given to Belem already in 1655.

Cruise on the Amazon

21.10.2013 - 23.10.2013
The Journey: Macapa - Belem (by ferry- 502 km).

Oiapoque Bidge

18.10-2013 – 20.10.2013,
108 109 km since the beginning of the journey,
Route: Cayenne - St.Georges - Oiapoque - Calcoen - Macapa (849 km).

Cayenne Zoo

17.10.2013
107 260 km since the beginning of the journey
Route: Kourou – Cayenne (120 km).

Cayenne Zoo together with the Botanical Gardens is located 25 kilometers from the capital. Coming from Kourou it remains almost next to the road. Only 8 km from the big road.

And according to the TripAdvisor The Zoo is the attraction no.3 of Cayanne, which means that here would be no passing without visiting it. And the first half of the day was again filled.

Kourou Space Center

16.10.2013
Day 971
107,140 km since the beginning of the journey, Route: Aouara - Kourou (217 km).

From Wikipedia : http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Guiana_Space_Centre

The Guiana Space Centre or, more commonly, Centre spatial guyanais (CSG) is a French and European spaceport near Kourou in French Guiana. Operational since 1968, it is particularly suitable as a location for a spaceport as it fulfills the two major geographical requirements of such a site: it is quite close to the equator, so that the spinning earth can impart some extra velocity to the rockets for free when launched eastward, and it has uninhabited territory (in this case, open sea) to the east, so that lower stages of rockets and debris from launch failures cannot fall on human habitations.

The European Space Agency, the French space agency CNES, and the commercial Arianespace company conduct launches from Kourou. This is the spaceport used by the ESA to send supplies to the International Space Station using the Automated Transfer Vehicle.

French Guyana

13.10.2013 – 15.10.2013
106,923 km since the beginning of the journey
Route: Paramaribo - Albina - St.Laurent Du Moroni - Mana - Aouara (226 km).

In the morning we drive to the French side to find out about the crossing, as there are other travelers wishing the same, as well. Aleksey and Dawen have been traveling in their small Peugeot along South America for a year already.

On the spot, we learn that no special permission for this small barge is nowhere to be got, and it 's not really needed. Customs said that the necessary items are: your own passport and your car passport and the car insurance. And that's just about all. But the crossing will be on Monday and then there will be the second shift at work there, so it is recommended before the take-over to present the documents to them as well.. To make it safer.

On Monday, we'll show the papers to the new officials, and they also confirm that anyone can ride over the river, and of course on your own risk. It is a sensible attitude, no overregulation and everyone is responsible for their own actions.


We formalize the vehicles out of Suriname, which means that the customs officer takes temporary car admission papers away. And the border guards add another stamp into the passport.

No Ferry?

11.10.2013-13.10.2013
106,697 km from the beginning of the journey
Route: Paramaribo - Albina - Paramaribo (295 km)

"One Road In, One Road Out" can be said about all three Guyana countries but as to Suriname – it would be more accurate to say - "One Ferry In, One Ferry Out."

The border between the countries runs along the river, and instead of bridges there is a functioning boat traffic, and the cars should be able to cross the river by ferry. And generally it is so, but sometimes it happens that the barge is being repaired or needs maintenance, and not just for one or two days, but for a longer period of time. The current “longer period” was expected to last up to October 28. Such was the last info received from Paramaribo. And so long - no cars crossing the river and no spare ferry either.

Since no one could say anything about the alternatives, the only way to find out was to drive to Albina to investigate the issue on the spot. Albina is Suriname 's border town, French Guyana is on the other side and the border city there is St. Laurent.


Passenger Port of Albina.

Paramaribo Zoo

Day 964,
09.10.2013,
106 402 km since the beginning of the journey
Paramaribo, Suriname.

The Paramaribo Zoo was opened in 1972 and it is located almost in the center of the town. The visit costs 10 Suriname dollars (3 USD).


There were almost no visitors there.

Suriname

05.10.2013 – 06.10.2013
Route: Georgetown – Moleson Creek – Paramaribo (446 km).

Suriname (former Dutch Guyana) is a South American smallest independent state, the area is of 165,000 km², and the population is approximately 556,000.

The country has borders with Guyana, Brazil and French Guiana, but between Suriname and Brazil there are no roads to connect the two countries, the only option is - either to drive through Guyana or French Guiana. For all the three countries can be said, " One Road In, One Road Out ".

For clarity, a map as well.
   

View Larger Map

Kaieteur Falls

Day 959,
105 957 km since the beginning of the journey,
Guyana.

226 –meters high Kaieteur waterfall is located in the middle of Guyana by the Potaro river and is one of the most important tourist attractions of the country.

To visit the waterfall is possible by plane. From Georgetown the flight takes about an hour. Or the alternative is to hike through the rain forest for several days and in the meantime have a boat ride along the river because there is no road that leads to the waterfall.

The first view of the falls just before landing.

Guyana Zoo

Day 958,
105,950 km since the beginning of the journey,
Georgetown, Guyana.


Guyana Zoological Park is located in Georgetown, and was opened in 1952. The zoo is relatively small, situated almost in the center of the town and to have a good overview it would take about one-two hours Next, there are already pictures.

Lethem to Georgetown

26.09.2013 – 27.09.2013
The Route: Lethem – Kurupukari - Linden – Georgetown (531 km)
Guyana


For a change, instead of the rain forest there is genuine savanna on both sides of the road.

Welcome to Guyana!

23.09.2013 - 25.09.2013
105,397 km since the beginning of the journey,
Route: Manaus - Boa Vista - Bomfim - Lethem (934 km).

Upwards from Manaus there are also rain forests and the landscape is a bit more hilly. And the road is more decent. In the long I even remembered that there was the fifth gear also available in the bus.

Next to the road is the Iracema Falls and to visit it one has to drive along side roads and then follow a shadowy walking path up to the waterfalls.

Manaus

15.09.2013 – 22.09.2013

Manaus, the city is characterized well by its not official names through the ages: Heart of the Amazon, the City of the Forest, Paris of the Jungle.


The historic Custom House of Manaus - Alfândega. It is not open to visitors.

Teatro Amazonas

Manaus is a large city with a population of 2.2 million in the middle of the Amazon area. The town was founded in the year of 1669, but the best time of the town was at the end of the 19 th century and in the beginning of the early 20 th century, during the time of the Rubber Boom. Briefly : Hevea brasiliensis rubber- tree grew during this time only in the Amazon region and local Indians picked and used the raw rubber for a long time to turn their clothes and shoes more waterproof.



The purchasers and dealers of the raw rubber became super-rich at that time and as they wanted to get here a real Italian opera,so the Manaus Opera House was built mostly from expensive materials brought here mainly from Europe.

Such as roof tiles were brought from France, marble from Italy, chairs from England. The roof cupola consists of 36,000 ceramic details and the colors correspond to the Brazilian flag :/ / en.wikipedia.org / wiki / Teatro_Amazonashttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Teatro_Amazonas

BR-319 Map and Waypoints

Here are map and waypoints

Humaita-Manaus, BR-319, Day 6, Manaus

14.09.2013,
Day 939,
104,223 km since the beginning of the journey,
Daily Route 253 km,


In the morning a winged one is in the shower room, and even stays in place until I come back with the camera.

Humaita-Manaus, BR-319, Day 5

13.09.2013,
Day 938
103 970 km since the beginning of tfe journey
Journey of the Day - 0 km, ie, just the day off.
Tupana Igapó-Açu


After breakfast the day is going quite smoothly over to a car - free day, because the place is perfectly ok, you can swim in the river, and behind the house one can have a shower.

And you can get cold drinks from the counter of the bar. In the shadow there are hammocks. And an opportunity to get acquainted with how the everyday life of the village is going.

Bridges, BR-319, Day 4

12.09.2013,
Day 937,
103 970 km since the beginning of the journey,
Day's journey 70 km,




Another morning in the parking lot of the „Hotel Embratel". The fourth day on this legendary highway begins.

The night was generally quiet, except for the voices heard from the rain forest. Frogs croak, and in the meantime from the side of the dark forest could be heard the breakage of some large branches. No one, of course, is in sight.

Humaita-Manaus, BR-319, Day 3

11.09.2013,
Day 936,
103 900 km since the beginning of the journey,
Day itineary 107 km,




The caption of the picture could be simple and short : Completely drivable road through the rain forest on a less-rainy-season or something similar. The fact is that the road was drivable, but no talking about the speed.

Humaita-Manaus, BR-319, Day 2

10.09.2013,
Day 935,
103 793 km since the beginning of the journey
Day's journey 100 km, 48 bridges.


Morning at the gate of the tower of Embratel. It is 7 o'clock and in the shade the temperature is perfectly bearable, not a single cloud in the sky.

Humaita-Manaus, BR-319, Day 1

09.09.2013,
Day 934,
103 693 km from the beginning of the journey
Daily Route 136 km,

At 7 o'clock in the morning the sky is cloudy. And the last few days have been such half-dry ones, so there is no sense to postpone the journey.

Rodovia Fantasma

08.09.2013
The Route: Porto Velho – Humaita (244 km)

"Where to ?"
"Manaus"
"It can be reached by ferry from the port of Porto Velho"
"No, we will go along the BR-319 highway,"
"Do you want to go along this road to Manaus ?  By That Road! ? ?"

And so on, and so on, this was the main reaction, when talking about the onward journey : Porto Velho - Humaita - Manaus.

Just that road - the part of 640 km - from  Humaita - Manaus. Because to Manaus it usually reached either by ferry or by plane, but along the road? In fact, one can also get there by land - as at the beginning of the 1970s a roadway, BR–319, was built by the army through dense rainforest, but the road was officially declared impassable already in 1988.

For clarity, the map, the BR -319 is the thicker red line between Manaus and Humaita.

Back in Brazil

04.09.2013 – 07.09.2013,
Route:  Assis Brasil - Brasileia – Rio Branco – Porto Velho (963 km),
103 313 km since the beginning of the journey.


A piece of no-one-land between the two large countries, the area of Brazil is the largest in South America, and the third largest in Peru. Next - Alfandega border crossing point is waiting ahead. Brazil.

Puerto Maldonado and Tambopata

01.09.2013 – 03.09.2013
The Route: Cusco – Ccatca - Ocongate – Loromayo - Puerto Maldonado – Inapari (713 km)

Back in Cusco

27.08.2013 The Route: Abancay – Cusco (203 km)
28.08.2013 – 31.08.2013 Cuscos
101 657 km since the beginning of the journey
Quinta Lala Camping, Cusco, Peruu

Since the past few days the rear rim was continuesly hot so it was necessary to change the travel plans a little and drive directly from Abankayst to Cusco to solve he problem. The initial plan was to visit Arequipat, and Colca and the Canyon of Cotahuasi, but nothing to do. In a city of half a million inhabitants, it is easier to find replacement parts and deal with repairs.


This road will go towards Cusco.

Sondor

Day 920,
26.08.2013,

The Route: Andahuaylas – Sondor – Sojccamuyu – Matapuquio – Huancarama – Abancay (158 km).


The Great Pyramid of Sondor is a small pyramid - shaped mountain 17 kilometres from the town of Andahuaylas town. The Pyramid was originally built by Chanka civilization.

Vilcashuaman

23.08.2013 - 25.08.2013
Route: Lircay – Julcamarca – Ayacucho – Vilcashuaman – Astania – Conception – Puente Pampas – Chincheros – Andahuaylas (404 km).

Huancavelica

22.08.2013,
Day 916
100 862 km since the beginning of the journey
Route: Huancavelica – Abra Huayraccasa – Huachocolpa – Lircay (122 km),  
New altitude record: Abra Huayraccasa – 5059 m.
New door mirrors bought: 1


Sunny morning in Huancavelica, or in the local Quechua language Wankawilka. The city was founded in 1572, currently there are about 40 thousand inhabitants.

Chupaca

21.08.2013
The Route: Chupaca – Huancayo – Huancavelica (151 km),

While having my car repaired in Chupaca, that is a small town near Huancayo, I found an overnight place in "Campamento La Perla". And the place was ok in every way - enough room, plus electricity, hot water, and of course, Wi-Fi, which worked most of the time.

Huancayo

Day 915
100 581 km since the beginning of the journey
Huancayo, Peru,


Huancayo former railway station. Lima - Huancayo railroad is South America's highest railway and the second highest in the world Link, and on route it covers 69 tunnels and 58 bridges.

Nazca

11.07.2013 – 14.07.2013
The Journey: Nazca – Chauchilla – Nazca – Lima (565 km).

Near the town of Nazca in the Andean foothills there are strange lines and shapes on the plateau of 400 square kilometers. The mystery of those lines and shapes is fully unsolved till now.

Here in this rock desert there are hundreds and hundreds of straight lines and geometric shapes and nearly 70 images of animals and plants. Different sources give different numbers, of course.


The technology of making of the lines is simple. Here in this picture all the big and small stones are removed from the area of a half -meter width so that the lighter line of the ground has appeared. Some of the lines are, of course, wider than half a meter, but the technology is the same. The brighter spot is the stone-free ground.

Ollantaytambo, Moray, and other places

07.07.2013 – 10.07.2013

The journey: Aguas Calientes – Santa Teresa – Santa Maria – Ollantaytambo – Moray – Abancay – Nasca – San Juan – Nasca (1085 km).


One can cross the river this way as well.

Lost City of the Incas

06.07.2013.

Machu Picchu in Peru has become one of the symbols of Peru, the place is in UNSECO World Heritage List and belongs to the group of the seven new wonders of the world (New 7 Wonders of the World http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/New7Wonders_of_the_World).

Machu Picchu was discovered, or is more correct to say that " re-discovered " for public in 1911, by professor of Yale University - Hiram Bingham, although the locals knew the location of the city already before. Hiram Bingham was looking for the legendary Inca city Vilcabamba, and had initially considered Machu Picchu to be Vilcabamba (Vilcabamba, Espiritu Pampa, or the Inca Empire was the last stronghold of the Spanish conquerors, which was captured in 1572, burned down and the location of the town was forgotten).

Machu Picchu was built in the reign of Pachacuti (approx. 1450), then it was abandoned for unknown reasons long before the Spaniards came. And the purpose of Machu Picchu being built on top of a hill is still quite unknown.

Back Road to Machu Picchu

04.07.2013 – 05.07.2013
The journey by car : Cusco - Urubamba - Ollantaytambo - Santa Maria - Santa Teresa - Hidroelectrica (224 km).
The journey on foot along the railway track : Hidroelectrica - Aguas Calientes (3 hours).

There are usually three different ways to visit Machu Picchu.

The first : four - day guided walk along the Inca Trail and that must be booked in advance, as only 500 hikers are allowed on that route per day. And in June the web page showed - the first free chance will be only mid-October, so this trip was canceled. Besides one could choose between routes of various lenghts like - , Salkantay Trek, Choquequirao Trek, etc. (google help ').

Second : by train. It used very likely by most of the visitors

Third : Drive your own car or use public transport (Ollantaytambo - Santa Maria - Santa Teresa - Hidroelectrica), leave the car at Hydroelectric power station and walk 8 miles along the railway up to Aqua Calientis, located at the foot of Machu Picchu.


Here is the map - the third option is in red.

Cusco

02.07.2013 – 03.07.2013,  
The Journey: Puno – Rachi – Cusco (385 km),

Rachi archaeological complex is located in Cusco - Puno highway and consists of many different parts. First - Temple of Wiracocha, from which is only 20 meters high wall has preserved and as to the adjacent columns - there is only a meter high part left.

Titicaca Lake Islands

01.07.2013
Boat trip : Puno - Uros Isla - Isla Taquile - Puno (the whole day long, several tens of kilometers).

An important attraction of Titicaca are the floating islands of Uros and the inhabitants of the island. The islands are named after their builders – the Uros Nation, who built them in order not to fall under the power of the Incas as the Incas expanded their empire in the 14th century. The Uroe language is now extinct, the Aymara language is spoken nowadays on the islands, because the people mixed with Aimaras over the years
.
The people of the Islands of Uros make their living on fishing and tourists at the present time. There are islands where tourists are not allowed, and there are islands where to trips of varing lengths are organized., from a few hours visit up to overnighing on the island.


Puno, Cerrito de Huajsapata - a monument dedicated to the creator of the Inca Empire, First Inca Manco Capac – is up at the hill.

Peru

30.06.2013
The Journey : Copacabana (Bolivia ) - Yunguyo - Puno (Peru ), 143 km
The Border of Peru - Bolivia.

Leaving Bolivia is nothing extraordinary. Passport control will add one more stamp, the customs will take away the document of temporary import of the car, and asks something about fuel. In Bolivia the fuel is almost 3x cheaper than in nearby countries.

 Then the next South American country of Peru is ahead. Here formalities take also no time at all. Immigration - and then the vehicle insurance. Farther- on the wall of a shop "Welcome to Peru".


Ten meters further there was another check-point.

Tiwanaku

27.06.2013 – 29.06.2013
The Journey: La Paz – Tiwanaku – Copacabana (266 km).

First a few facts: Tiwanaku is an important archaeological monument of the pre- period of Incas in South America, the place is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is situated 72 km away from La Paz, it is also referred to as the "American Stonehenge" and "Baalbek of the New World."


The precise time of the construction and the builders of it are unknown. But it is believed that Tiwanaku`s current location was inhabited as early as 11,450 BC.

Salar de Uyuni

23.06.2013 – 25.06.2013
The Journey: La Paz – Oruro - Potosi – Uyuni – Isla  - Tahua – Salinas de Graci Mendoza – Challapata – Oruro – La Paz (1373 km)


Located 3656 meters above the Salar de Uyuni is the world's largest salt field , which has an area of 10,582 km2 , and the thickness of the central part of the salt layer is approximately 10 meters .

Death Road

21.06.2013 - 22.06.2013
The Journey: La Paz – Coroico – La Paz.


A couple of paragraphs from Wikipedia :

The North Yungas Road (alternatively known as Grove's Road, Coroico Road, Camino de las Yungas, Road of fate or Death Road) is a 61-kilometre (38 mi) or 69-kilometre (43 mi) road leading from La Paz to Coroico, 56 kilometres northeast of La Paz in the Yungas region of Bolivia.

It is legendary for its extreme danger and in 1995 the Inter-American Development Bank christened it as the "world's most dangerous road". One estimate is that 200 to 300 travellers are killed yearly along the road. The road includes cross markings on many of the spots where vehicles have fallen.

Bolivia, Aymara New Year

20.06.2013 – 21.06.2013


Bolivian currency is bolivanos . 10 BOL = 1,1 EUR or 1.45 USD

Bolivia, La Paz

16.06.2013 – 20.06.2013
The Journey: Tambo Quemado – Patacamaya - La Paz (300 km).

I could leave behind the Chile- Bolivia border at about one clock, hoping to reach La Paz (300 kilometers) before dark. The road was said to be ok , still the main road between Chile and Bolivia

Before Patacamaya it was necessary to pay the toll of 8 bolivano .